The Luberon [driving & cycling]

This picturesque hilltop village in Provence is renowned for its beautiful stone architecture, narrow cobblestone streets, and wondrous views of the Luberon Valley. The village is a visual delight with its ancient stone houses, a Romanesque church, and a Renaissance castle, making it a lovely place to wander, stopping to sip drinks at traditional cafes. There’s a lively artisan market on Tuesdays.

When people think of ‘Provence’, they’ll think of medieval villages, rich culture, exceptional food and… lavender. Vast fields of it, smothering the rolling landscapes like a purple carpet.

Locals in Provence have been cultivating lavender for centuries, using it for a variety of purposes. It’s distilled into an essential oil, which is then used as an ingredient in perfumes, cosmetics, and aromatherapy products. It’s also used in traditional Provencal sachets to scent linens and wardrobes, and in local dishes to add a unique flavour. (There’s even lavender ice cream). Lavender is also known for its medicinal properties, such as soothing burns, relieving headaches, and aiding sleep.

Lavender thrives in Provence due to its ideal climate, characterised by abundant sunshine, well-drained soils, and altitudes between 500 and 1,500 meters. No wonder, then, that lavender is deeply rooted in the region’s culture and economy.

The most famous locations for lavender gazing are the Valensole Plateau, Sault, and the Luberon region. The fields bloom from late June to early August, so you need to go then for the full immersive experience.

To learn about cultivation and distillation, head to the Lavandes Angelvin Estate in Valensole, where they’ll tell you all about it in the onsite shop, and stock a range of lavender-themed products. Another good adoption is the Blue Provence Distillery which offers free tours of their facility. Also, be sure to stop by the elegantly beautiful Abbaye Notre-Dame de Senanque, the subject of the classic Provence ‘lavender’ photo.

The picturesque village Roussillon is famous for its vibrant ochre cliffs. Nestled in the Luberon region, the village is renowned for its stunning red, yellow, and orange hues, thanks to the rich deposits of ochre pigment found in the surrounding cliffs and quarries. These striking colours give the village a unique and visually captivating appearance, especially under the bright Provencal sun.

The village’s pretty narrow, winding streets are lined with charming houses painted in various shades of ochre, but otherwise, it has that quintessential Provencal village feel. You can also wander the so-called Ochre Trail (Sentier des Ocres) to see the magnificent 100 million-year-old ochre cliffs. There are two different trails, one short (30 minutes) and one longer (60 minutes). Signs en route explain the local geology and unusual ecosystem.

Often referred to as the ‘Venice of Provence’ for its picturesque canals, this charming town has gained international fame for one thing – antiques. A hub for antique enthusiasts, it’s incredibly home to over 300 permanent antique dealers and numerous galleries. Its biannual antiques fair, one of the largest in Europe, attracts collectors and dealers from around the world. For the rest of us non-afficianados, there is a vibrant and fascinating market, held every Thursday and Sunday, featuring a wide array of antiques, vintage items, and art pieces.

Truffles in Provence are prized fungi known for their earthy aroma and rich flavour. They grow in the region’s limestone-rich soil and mild climate, often found near oak trees. Used in gourmet cooking, truffles enhance dishes with their unique taste. Provençal traditions celebrate truffles with festivals and markets, reflecting their culinary and cultural importance to the locals.

Truffle hunts are guided trips where trained dogs (or pigs) help locate these hidden treasures. Sign up to enjoy the thrill of the hunt and for the chance to learn about truffle cultivation. It’s an immersive way to experience a true Provençal tradition. The hunts are usually followed by some kind of tasting or cooking class, so you also get the chance to try traditional Provençal cuisine firsthand.

The best places for truffle hunts are the Luberon and Ventoux regions. Las Pastras is an organic farm in the Luberon run by a French-American couple who offer summer and winter truffle hunts, followed by a sampling of fresh truffle hors d’oeuvres, Champagne, and a tasting of their olive and truffle oil. See their tour listing in the ‘Who to go with: organised tours’ section below.

Another way to sample truffles is to attend the truffle market in the village of Richerenches in the heart of truffle country. Held on Saturday mornings in winter (November to March), it brings together buyers, brokers, growers and curious onlookers.

This organic farm in the Luberon run by a French-American couple offers you the chance to experience a traditional French wine harvest, including a tour of the farm, lessons in cultivation, and the chance to stomp on the grapes. Weekdays only.