Bangkok

High season (November-January) is also the ‘cool’ season. Don’t get the wrong idea, though. It’s only a few degrees cooler than the hottest months, and even evening temperatures rarely dip below 21°C. February and March are hot and sticky, while sweltering April is the hottest month.

The rainy season usually begins in May and lasts until October – downpours can be pretty intense, but generally only last for an hour or so in the afternoon. Wear flip-flops or sandals, as there’s no way to avoid wet feet, and carry an umbrella.

The easiest way to travel from Bangkok’s sleek Suvarnabhumi Airport to downtown Bangkok is by cab. Taxis are cheap and clean – you buy a ticket from the desk outside the terminal – although London-style taxi ‘limos’ are available for those wanting a little extra comfort.

The Airport Rail Link is convenient if you’re staying close to a stop, but be warned that there are no elevators (and lots of stairs) at several of the stops.

The BTS/Skytrain system is affordable and excellent, whizzing you across Bangkok in minutes – savvy travellers base themselves at hotels near a BTS stop. Buy a transport card so you don’t have to line up for tickets during peak hours. The MRT (underground) is handy, but it doesn’t have the Skytrain views.

Taxis and tuk-tuks are cheap and useful for heading out at night, but avoid them at peak times when you’ll waste hours in gridlock.

For a break from taxis and trains, take to the water and bounce along the khlongs (canals) in a speedboat with the locals.

First-time visitors like to base themselves on the Chao Phraya River (Bangkok’s ‘Grand Canal’), in atmospheric Chinatown or in or near old Bangrak to be in the heart of the action.

However, while Chao Phraya River views are wonderful and it’s great to be able to step out of the hotel door into bustling Chinatown, staying there isn’t really necessary as the BTS/Skytrain makes it easy to get anywhere fast – which is why hotels along Sukhumvit Road (dotted with BTS/Skytrain stops) are very popular.

Second-time visitors tend to prefer Asoke, surrounded by restaurants, or the hipster neighbourhood of Thonglor.

Avoid the backpacker ghetto of Banglamphu, and its main street Khao San Road, like the plague. It’s not even worth a look to satisfy curiosity.

Superb restaurants are dotted all over the city and there are fantastic street food stalls on every corner.

After dark, Chinatown’s main drag turns into the city’s best street food destination; Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thonglor) is a more intimate version.

Thonglor, Ekkamai and Ari are the locals’ choice for affordable eateries, stylish restaurants and hip bars and pubs. RCA is where Thais go for dance clubs and live bands.

Also see our guide to Bangkok’s best food and drink.

Siam, with its swanky malls, is the spot to shop for everything from Thai designer fashion at Siam Centre to cheap cameras, phones and electronics at MBK.

Shopaholics love Chatuchak or JJ markets for clothes, crafts and souvenirs, while Sampeng Lane in Chinatown is fun for colourful Asian trinkets, accessories and kids’ toys.

Pahurat Lane in Little India is the place to head for textiles, while the Amulet market sells Buddhist images, statues and amulets.

Also see our guide to Bangkok’s best shopping.