Iceland 13-day itinerary (Route 1 road trip)

This high-tech, glass-domed museum recreates the geological wonders of Iceland in an immersive, sound-and-vision experience.

Among the exhibits, you can walk inside an ice cave, experience a volcanic eruption, see a recreation of the seabird cliffs of Latrabjarg and feel what it’s like to watch the Northern Lights (without having to stay up till midnight for the privilege).

It’s a fun, informative experience, and makes a good primer should you choose to visit some of the sights in real life. Don’t miss the views over Reykjavik from the Observation Deck.

Iceland’s tallest church, built from 1945 to 1986, has become a symbol of Iceland’s identity and a Reykjavik landmark. It’s striking design is inspired by Iceland’s geothermal geology – it’s supposed to resemble basalt lava and trap rocks. It’s also a decent viewpoint. Take an elevator ride to the top for sweeping views over the city.

An art museum on the Reykjavik waterfront showcases the work of pop artist Erro alongside new installations by local and international artists. One of three museums that officially make up the Reykjavik Art Museum. Open daily.

An art museum and sculpture collection featuring white Viking figures and curvaceous shapes, housed in the former studio of Icelandic sculptor Asmundur Sveinsson. One of three museums that officially make up the Reykjavik Art Museum. Open daily.

An art museum showcasing modern paintings and sculptures by well-known Icelandic artists, notably Johannes Kjarval, housed in a striking Nordic Modernist building. One of three museums that officially make up the Reykjavik Art Museum. Open daily.

A dynamic National Museum focusing on the island’s turbulent and colourful past but also examining life in modern-day Iceland. There are treasures dating back to the Vikings and Saga Age, alongside modern displays on fashion and photography.

Iceland’s most popular – and photogenic – geothermal pool is surrounded by black lava fields and framed by the steaming towers of the Svartsengi geothermal plant. It’s an otherworldly place that looks like something out of a science-fiction movie – and an essential experience to tick off your Icelandic bucket list.

Averaging 37–39°C, the steaming pools are actually a by-product from the power plant, but don’t let that deter you. The waters are rich in minerals and silica, absorbed from the volcanic bedrock, a tonic for skin inflammation.

The psychedelic, blue-green water comes from naturally occurring algae which thrive in the balmy water.

If a dip in the fabled Blue Lagoon isn’t enough of a spoil, then for the ultimate indulgence, book a night at this swanky spa hotel, located just a few steps from the lagoon’s western edge. Rooms are beautifully decorated, with expansive glass windows offering views over the Reykjanes lava fields of the lagoon.

There are three upscale restaurants to choose from – the Michelin-rated Moss, Lava or the Spa Restaurant.

Everything here is designed to indulge your every whim, from morning yoga sessions to spa treatments and massages. A section of the lagoon is reserved solely for guests’ use.

The granddaddy of all the world’s geysers (and the one after which all others are named), Geysir is one of Iceland’s classic, must-see sights. Situated in the Haukadalur geothermal area, a maze of steaming hot springs and mineral pools, Geysir is arguably the most famous geyser on the planet, and everyone who visits Iceland wants to see it.

In fact, the site isn’t one geyser, but several. The original ‘Great Geysir’ is thought to have been active for around 800 years, but it waxes and wanes according to local volcanic activity; currently it’s going through a dormant phase.

However, nearby Strokkur blows its top like clockwork, shooting a steaming jet skywards every five to 10 minutes. On a good day, it blows up more than 30m, sending a spray of hot water over the crowds gathered below.

If you want to know more, The Geysir Centre has a geothermal area and multimedia museum that explains the science behind the spurt.

40km from Reykjavik, this landscape of lake, lava and rock is a geological wonder. It sits astride the divide between the North American and European tectonic plates, and in many places you’ll be able to see the geological stress at work in the form of steaming fissures, hot water spouts and cracks. If you feel up to it, you can even snorkel or dive down into the Silfra divide.

It also provided the backdrop for one of Iceland’s most important historical events. A thousand years ago, Icelanders gathered here to found the Althingi, the world’s first democratically elected parliament. You can still see the Logberg (Law Rock), where the parliament gathered and the lawspeaker recounted the agreed rules.

The Silfra Rift running right through the middle of Thingvellir Lake is the tectonic boundary between the North American and Eurasian plates. The glacial meltwater is pure and crystal-clear, creating excellent visibility and emphasising the striking underwater scenery.

This is the only place in the world where you can dive between two tectonic plates and two continents – the rift between Eurasia and America. The water is never warmer than 4°C (you’ll need to wear a drysuit) and the glacial meltwater is so clear, it makes some divers feel dizzy.

Family-friendly snorkelling trips are available in summer, so non-divers can go too, and it all takes place in the beautiful surrounds of the Thingvellir National Park.

For the full-on caving experience, visit these neighbouring caves in Thingvellir National Park, including the longest of all, 1,100m-long Vorouhellir. Initially thought to be separate, the caves are actually connected – and you get to squeeze through narrow tunnels joining the two systems.

This striking hotel sums up so much about Iceland: it’s architecturally bold, effortlessly stylish and situated only a stone’s throw from a geothermal power station.

Perched on stilts, with a projecting, glass-fronted wing that looks out over the landscapes of Thingvellir National Park, it’s the epitome of Icelandic industrial chic. It’s luxury with an edge of austerity, and feels a little bit like staying inside a lunar space station.

Everything here is designed to make the most of the hotel’s setting – through every window there are views of barren lava fields, tufty hills and the nearby Nesjavellir Power Plant.

The hotel’s Silfra restaurant specialises in Icelandic ‘slow food’, with many of the ingredients (including Arctic char) sourced within the local area.

The quiet west coast town of Bogarnes is home to the Settlement Centre, an interesting museum that tells the story of how settlers came to Iceland from Scandinavia during the 9th century. A second exhibition brings one of the most famous sagas, Egils Saga, to life. Open daily.

The second largest ice sheet after Vatnajokull, the ‘Long Glacier’ is a favourite for all-terrain jeep and snowmobiling trips, as well as guided hikes and glacier skiing for those who are experienced enough. There are also many ice caves to explore. It lies in the interior highlands, and can be reached from Thingvellir National Park.

Glaciers – vast sheets of permanently frozen ice – are remnants of the last Ice Age which have never melted – at least not yet. Sadly, due to climate change, many of them are now retreating at an alarming rate.

With more than 11% of its land surface covered, and over 269 named glaciers, Iceland is probably the best destination in the world to explore these wonders of nature. They are relatively easy to access here too, and served by plentiful, well-run tours for adventure enthusiasts.

Exploring glaciers

There are many different ways to explore the ice: on a glacier walk, by snowmobile or via a scenic flight.

Hiking on a glacier is the best way to see the ice up close: using crampons and ice-poles, you’ll trek out onto the glacier in the company of an experienced guide to see crevasses, seracs, ice caves and other formations.

Snowmobiling is a much more high-octane activity: wrapped up in polar-style suits, you’ll race over the ice at surprisingly fast speeds. It takes time to master, but it’s hugely thrilling fun.

Ice cave tours

Iceland is also one of the best places to see ice caves. These magical subterranean spaces glint and dazzle with polar colours, while strange ice sculptures adorn the walls, floor and ceiling. Little wonder they’re often featured in Icelandic myths as the homes of trolls, elves and other creatures.

Some of them are actually rock caves that are coated with ice, but there are also pure ice caves (usually located inside glaciers). Some are semi-permanent, while others only exist for short spaces of time before the ice swallows them up again.

These can usually only be reached on a guided glacier hike; many glacier tours include a tour of one or more along the way.

An accessible, family-friendly cave in the Hallmundarhraun lava field, in Borgarfjordur. It’s a great choice for kids, as most of the cave is reached via a walkway, and illuminated by fixed lighting. No squeezing, sliding or slipping required here.

Hotel Husafell sits in its own remote valley on the edge of the mighty Langjokull glacier, and numerous outdoor adventures are on offer here, from ice caving to glacier hiking.

The hotel itself is a smart, inviting space: a cluster of single-storey buildings clad in timber and glass, with luxuries including underfloor heating, slate bathrooms and artworks by Icelandic artist Pall Gudmundsson.

The hotel’s Icelandic restaurant is open for dinner and offers views of the highlands through floor-to-ceiling glass windows.

Reaching out into the icy ocean from Iceland’s west coast, this rocky, remote 100km peninsula offers a wealth of wilderness adventures.

It’s only a few hours’ drive from Reykjavik, but you’ll feel like you’ve reached the end of the earth here: with its deserted beaches, sheer cliffs, volcanic mountains and frozen lava flows, it offers an unforgettable snapshot of Iceland’s wild side.

It’s also topped by the shining expanse of Snaefellsjokull, a great ice cap which Jules Verne namechecked in Journey to the Centre of the Earth. And if you’ve always wanted to do a glacier walk, this is a fine location to do it.

Overlooking Grundarfjordur, this pyramid-shaped peak is a postcard image of West Iceland, and looks like something out of a fantasy novel. You might see scores of photographers gathered here at sunset, as well as at the nearby waterfall of Kirkjufellsfoss.

Beaches don’t get any wilder or more windswept than here, a crescent of black sand and rock formations surrounded by – well nothing much at all, really. West facing, it’s an incredible place to watch the sunset.

Snaefellsnes has its own answer to the Blue Lagoon – and while the site isn’t quite as impressive, it’s still a soothing place for a dip. The water often looks a murky green from the minerals and algae, but don’t fret – it’s completely clean, and warm as a bath.

If it’s a slice of Icelandic heritage you’re after, then this delightful harbourside hotel in Stykkisholmur will be right up your street.

The handsome, timber-clad building dates from 1867, and has been renovated with taste and a discerning eye for vintage design. Retro furniture, old maps, Icelandic books and sheepskin blankets adorn the lounge, and the ten rooms mirror the upcycled, mix-and-match style.

Unlike many Icelandic hotels, which are heavy on style but light on cosiness, the emphasis here is on creating a warm, welcoming space – it feels more like staying with Icelandic friends than the impersonality of a chic hotel.

This wonderful hotel in the countryside, two hours’ drive from Reykjavik, is the best place to stay for a true Icelandic wilderness experience.

From its rooms, you can look out onto ancient volcanoes, a mystical glacier and a lagoon where seals play; beyond it an empty sandy beach stretches out to the Atlantic, and soft-furred Icelandic horses huddle together in the wind.

The hotel’s country-style decor is idiosyncratic. Parts of the hotel date back to 1948 and the decor is traditional Icelandic. Images of whales, local flora and fauna and ancient legends hang on the walls.

The restaurant is pricey but the locally-inspired cuisine is excellent. There’s also a cosy, characterful bar – perfect for a relaxing drink after a long day of outdoor adventure.

This folk museum is one of the few places in Iceland where you can view traditional turf houses, which were still in use into the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The grass roofs and turf walls acted as insulation, and made a convenient construction method in a place where timber was pretty much non-existent. There’s also a cute little cafe where staff wear traditional Icelandic dress.

A museum with a difference: the chance to experience a key moment in Icelandic history, the battle of Orlygsstaoir in 1238, using VR headsets to really bring the experience to life.

Iceland’s pristine waters are among the best places in the world to spot wild whales. Tour boats take you out into the North Atlantic to see these gentle giants as they pass Iceland on their annual north–south migration, especially the main feeding and breeding season from May to November.

Humpback and minke are the most commonly sighted, but with luck you might also see sei, fin and, very occasionally, blue whales. Humpbacks – the most curious and playful of all the whales, so the best for whale watching – congregate in the far northern fjord of Eyjafjord.

The town of Husavik is the main base for whale watching, although it’s also possible to take tours from nearby Akureyri. Tours from Reykjavik head to wildlife-filled Faxafloi Bay, where dolphins, porpoises and puffins are also regularly sighted.

The tours guarantee sightings (or you get a free trip) and it’s common to see the whales up close. If you’re really lucky, you’ll be treated to a breach – an unforgettable display of whale acrobatics, in which the animals leap from the water before smashing back down in an explosion of spray.

This city-centre hotel isn’t much to look at – it’s set in a former school – but given the limited options in the ‘capital of northern Iceland’, it’s the best place to stay. The 100 modern Scandinavian rooms are smartly furnished and comfortable..

It’s a ten-minute walk to the centre of Akureyri – not great in the snow – but otherwise it’s ideally positioned for visiting the country’s northern attractions, including Lake Myvatn, Dimmuborgir, Dettifoss and the ski area at Mt Hlidarfjall. The town’s thermal pools are just across the road.

Slashing through the Bardardalur lava field, and clearly visible from the Ring Road, Godafoss (Waterfall of the Gods) is not just one of the most beautiful of Iceland’s waterfalls, it’s also one of the most historically important.

Here, it is said, is the site where Iceland officially became a Christian nation: way back in the year 1000, the lawspeaker of the Althingi parliament, Thorgeir, threw pagan idols into the thunderous waters of the falls, bringing Iceland’s pagan past to a dramatic end.

But even without the history, Godafoss is a glorious sight: a crescent-shaped cascade of water, roughly 30m across and 12m high.

A hiking trail winds its way around the falls and offers brilliant photo opportunities, and a less visited – and less crowded – viewpoint.

Iceland often looks like a film set from Lord of the Rings, and nowhere is that truer than the area around Myvatn Lake.

A blasted, volcanic landscape of strange rock formations, smoking volcanoes, plopping mudpools and geothermal ponds, it’s the nearest you’ll ever get to a real-life Mordor.

There are numerous active volcanoes to see around Krafla, but the weirdest sight of all is Dimmuborgir, a bizarre forest of volcanic pillars criss-crossed by colour-coded hiking trails.

Myvatn Nature Baths at Jardbodin are known as the northern version of the Blue Lagoon – a large outdoor geothermal pool and steam room complex with views of Myvatn Lake.

Hold your nose: this bizarre landscape of bubbling mud pools and smoking fumaroles stinks to high heaven from all the sulphur, but it feels a little like walking on the surface of another planet.

These strange lava formations look like the remains of an ancient, crumbling citadel (the name means ‘dark castles’), and were made when an ancient lava tube collapsed 2,300 years ago. Various colour-coded hiking trails wind amongst the pillars.

A hiking trail leads along the rim of this 300m-wide volcanic crater (whose name means ‘hell’ in Icelandic), created in 1724 by a powerful eruption, and now filled by a china-blue pool.

Iceland isn’t short on waterfalls, but precious few can match mighty Dettifoss for sheer, jaw-dropping power.

100m wide and 45m high, the falls handle about 400 cubic metres of water every second – the largest volume of any waterfall in Europe – creating a vast plume of spray that can be seen for miles around. It’s quite a sight, and the sound as it echoes from the surrounding canyon walls can be utterly deafening.

When conditions are just right, you’ll see double rainbows lighting up the falls. Film buffs might recognise it – it’s been used by many big-budget movies, including Ridley Scott’s Prometheus.

Good hotels are much harder to come by in East Iceland, so this attractive, family-owned hotel is a good find. It’s located near the large glacial Lake Lagarfljot, and makes a convenient base from which to explore the eastern fjords such as Seydisfjordur and Reydarfjordur.

The design is functional: a trio of single-storey boxes containing four rooms each, all attractively decorated with wooden floors, glass doors and little pebbly patio areas where you can sit out and admire the scenery.

There is a decent restaurant and, rather oddly, a cognac lounge. Owners Astvaldur and Kristin are very friendly and full of information on the surrounding area.

Hofn is a salty fishing town on the southeast coast, but amongst Icelanders it’s famous for one thing: its seafood, especially its langoustines. These tasty crustaceans can be tasted at several restaurants around town – you’ll never taste them sweeter or fresher. Time to get cracking…

Iceland is nothing if not eccentric, and this 17-room guesthouse is no exception.

As the name hints, it was once a dairy processing plant, but it’s been renovated into a modern guesthouse. Rooms are very simply furnished – some might say stark – but all are ensuite and offer views over Vantnajokull and the surrounding mountains.

The hotel is situated on the road leading to the southeast harbour town of Hofn, about 2km from the quayside and its excellent seafood restaurants – the best places to taste the town’s legendary langoustines.

This glacial lagoon in southeast Iceland is a unique sight. Shimmering under the great ice cap of Vatnajokull, the lagoon is filled with icebergs, which glint in a rainbow of icy colours, from snow white to translucent blue.

Simply wandering around the lagoon’s edges is an experience in itself, but the best way to explore is to hop on a guided boat cruise. Steering through the enormous icebergs allows you to see them up close and appreciate their shape and colours. Around the mouth of the lagoon, look out for seals diving for fish.

The icebergs are shards of the nearby Breidamerkurjokull glacier, which cleave off into the lagoon, and are pushed towards the sea as the glacier moves down the valley. It’s well worth walking down to the beach at the mouth of the Jokulsa river, where icebergs wash up onto the black volcanic sands. For obvious reasons, it’s dubbed Diamond Beach.

Unsurprisingly, Jokulsarlon is a favourite location for film crews: Lara Croft, Batman and James Bond are just a few of the big-name movies which have used it as a backdrop.

For the more adventurous-minded, racing across icy wilderness, surrounded by nothing but mountains and fresh powder, is a heart-in-the-mouth thrill.

Snowmobiles (also known as a skidoo) are surprisingly fast (you can hit speeds up to around 45mph/70kph), and they enable you to reach remote areas inaccessible on foot.

Best places to do it

Vatnajokull is the best glacier for snowmobile adventures, with large expanses of ice and snow to race across, and several offshoot glaciers in addition to the main ice sheet. Its size means it can accommodate a number of different operators, all of who offer slightly different routes. Trips onto Vatnajokull can easily be arranged in Skaftafell and the surrounding areas.

Langjokull, the ‘Long Glacier’, is another great place. Tour companies like Arctic Adventures combine a snowmobile trip with a visit to one of the glacier’s many ice caves.

Myrdalsjokull is a glacier on the south coast, often used for day trips from Reykjavik. Snaefellsjokull on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula also has tours.

If you want to see the infamous Eyjafjallajokull volcano up close (or at least as much as you can see of it, since it’s buried under ice), the easiest way to do it is by skidoo. South Adventure offers a couple of possible trips.

If you’re after icy adventures, you won’t want to miss a visit to this immense ice sheet – the largest in Iceland, so huge that it stretches all the way from the south coast to the north.

A weird world of glaciers, crevasses, aretes, canyons and volcanoes, it offers a wealth of activities from glacier walks to snowmobiling, hiking, wildlife spotting, ice climbing and sightseeing flights.

Most visitors visit the southern part of the park around Skaftafell, where most of the activity providers are based.

You can’t miss this imposing hotel as you drive along the south coast: clad in black timber and glass, its blocky, architectural profile stands out against the hills like a contemporary sculpture.

It’s part of the Islandshotel group, which is known for its contemporary decor and luxurious, modern style. The Glacier Lagoon is up there with the best of the group: chic rooms, picture windows and an ultra-refined restaurant make this one of the best places to stay on the south coast.

Skaftafell National Park is only 30km northwest, and (despite the name) Jokulsarlon is roughly the same distance to the northeast. These are two of Iceland’s top outdoor nature attractions – making this a great base for wilderness fans.

If you’re after icy adventures, you won’t want to miss a visit to this immense ice sheet – the largest in Iceland, so huge that it stretches all the way from the south coast to the north.

A weird world of glaciers, crevasses, aretes, canyons and volcanoes, it offers a wealth of activities from glacier walks to snowmobiling, hiking, wildlife spotting, ice climbing and sightseeing flights.

Most visitors visit the southern part of the park around Skaftafell, where most of the activity providers are based.

The granddaddy of the glaciers: stretching from Iceland’s north to south, this is the biggest ice sheet in Europe. It’s so huge, it encompasses two national parks: the southern area is more visited, with a range of glacier walks and snowmobiling trips from Skaftafell.

Even the beaches in Iceland are weird. Instead of soft white powder, here you’re more likely to find the beaches made of jet-black sand – a reminder of the volcanic forces that continue to shape the island. Reynisfara is probably the most famous of all, located on the south coast, roughly halfway between Reykjavik and Skaftafell.

At 200ft (60m) high, this mighty column of water is one of the most impressive of all Iceland’s waterfalls. Local legend claims that there is treasure hidden behind the falls.

Another impressive 60m-high cascade on the south coast which has one unique reason to visit: it’s one of the only waterfalls in Iceland which you can walk behind. Be prepared to get wet.

This notorious volcano brought Iceland’s air traffic to an abrupt halt when it blew its top in 2010, sending huge age clouds up into the atmosphere. The volcano is concealed beneath a huge ice cap that’s clearly visible as you drive along the south coast towards Skaftafell. If you want to get closer, you’ll need to arrange a guided snowmobile tour.

This ranch-style hotel is perfectly located, and your best option, for exploring southwest Iceland.

There are seven bizarre but dazzling suites, taking the world’s continents as their themes and containing items from them all – apart from the Antarctica Suite, which is black and white like a penguin. Weird but wonderful.

There’s also an excellent restaurant in-house, serving locally-sourced food inspired by Nordic cuisine. The menu features plenty of Icelandic specialities, including smoked puffin (which tastes a bit like duck), Icelandic lamb, langoustines and skyr (a type of natural yoghurt) cheesecake. The salmon river provides wonderful fish too.

Located miles from anywhere, it’s a great spot for stargazing. The hotel has set up a special ‘observatory’ with a couple of high powered telescopes, and from September to April, on clear nights, a local astronomer visits to give talks about the stars, explaining the various constellations.

With Iceland being in the Aurora Belt, it’s also one of the best places in the world to see the Northern Lights in all their glory (when they decide to appear – most often between September and April). Stay for at least four nights to give yourself the best chance of seeing them.­ NB The hot tubs are perfectly placed for midnight dips and views of the Northern Lights.

There’s one compelling reason to stay at this manor house on the south coast – it’s one of the top places to experience Icelandic horse riding.

Located on a working farm, the triple-gabled timber building offers elegant, traditionally furnished rooms, some tucked in under the eaves, others with spoils like clawfoot bath tubs or Nespresso machines.

The views over the surrounding countryside are superb, and there’s a refined restaurant and spa, too.

Various horseback trips are on offer, from 1-hour introductory rides, to half-day trips to Irarfoss, Eyjafjalla and local beaches, and multi-day rides deep into the Icelandic wilds. You can also snowmobile to the famous Eyjafjallajokull volcano (2-3 hours, ideal for beginners), and hike on the Solheimajokull glacier.

Around a four-hour drive from the centre of Reykjavik, the Landmannalaugar region is like an oasis in the otherwise barren highlands. A hot spring and cold river converge in a large pool overlooked by orange mountains, pastures and looming volcanoes.

It’s the start of the Laugavegur Trail, but also a day-trip destination in its own right for hikers and nature lovers. In season you can camp or stay at the camping hut.

This ranch-style hotel is perfectly located, and your best option, for exploring southwest Iceland.

There are seven bizarre but dazzling suites, taking the world’s continents as their themes and containing items from them all – apart from the Antarctica Suite, which is black and white like a penguin. Weird but wonderful.

There’s also an excellent restaurant in-house, serving locally-sourced food inspired by Nordic cuisine. The menu features plenty of Icelandic specialities, including smoked puffin (which tastes a bit like duck), Icelandic lamb, langoustines and skyr (a type of natural yoghurt) cheesecake. The salmon river provides wonderful fish too.

Located miles from anywhere, it’s a great spot for stargazing. The hotel has set up a special ‘observatory’ with a couple of high powered telescopes, and from September to April, on clear nights, a local astronomer visits to give talks about the stars, explaining the various constellations.

With Iceland being in the Aurora Belt, it’s also one of the best places in the world to see the Northern Lights in all their glory (when they decide to appear – most often between September and April). Stay for at least four nights to give yourself the best chance of seeing them.­ NB The hot tubs are perfectly placed for midnight dips and views of the Northern Lights.

A once-in-a-lifetime experience: the chance to travel down inside a dormant volcano, the only place in the world that it’s possible to do so.

It combines a 3km hike (around 45 mins each way) and a cave tour: the volcano is accessed via an elevator that descends into the volcano’s underground chambers. If you’re feeling flush, you can skip the hiking part with a helicopter trip.

The volcano hasn’t erupted in the last 4,000 years, but it’s still an unnerving experience as you descend on the elevator into its inky depths, like descending into the Icelandic underworld. The main chamber is just over 120m deep: the molten magma that once filled it is thought to have drained away, leaving behind a cavernous, cathedral-like space.

One of the longest lava tunnels in Iceland – 1360m long, 30m wide and up to 10m high. The ‘Standard’ lava tunnel tour (1 hour) visits the most accessible section of the cave, while the longer ‘Adventure’ tour (3-4 hours) ventures into the deeper sections.