Taj Mahal

East of central Agra and just south of the Yamuna, the Taj’s subsidiary gateways all funnel visitors to the main entrance and its classic archway-framing view of the tomb itself.

The east gate is generally less crowded than the west one, while the south is closed until further notice.

While many visitors arrive on guided tours, independent travellers might wish to use on-the-spot local guides (whose quality varies wildly) or audio guides. Food is not allowed inside the grounds and expect heightened security checks.

Some of the most striking views of the Taj are from the Yamuna River itself or from Mehtab Bagh on its northern banks. River boats with boatmen can usually be found down by the north-eastern side though this appears to be rather ad hoc and unregulated – don’t expect a life jacket. The undulating nearby scrubland also offers good viewpoints.

For Mehtab Bagh (open sunrise to sunset), a part-restored 16th-century Mughal garden that aligns perfectly with the Taj’s profile, it’s a 7km drive to cross the Yamuna River and loop back to within 250m of the mausoleum.

The Taj Mahal is open all year round, Saturday to Thursday, from 30 minutes before sunrise to 30 minutes after sunset. It’s closed on Fridays.

Dawn and sunset lend the softest and most atmospheric light, with dawn also having fewer visitors.

October to April offers the most comfortable climate – but is the peak tourist season. May and June are hot and uncomfortable.

Five nights each month, the Taj opens for ‘Full Moon’ viewings between 8.30pm and 12.30am but you’ll need to book in advance.