Athens

Winters are moderate in Athens, but the city is at its best during spring and early autumn, when its cultural and social life moves outdoors for al fresco eating and drinking.

High summer (July and August) can be sweltering and smoggy; suburban beaches are crowded on weekends, but often blissfully empty midweek. August should be avoided when Athens virtually shuts down as residents migrate to the islands en masse.

The efficient Athens Metro connects Eleftherios Venizelos airport to the city centre every half an hour between 6.30am and 11.30pm. The suburban rail also links directly the airport to the central train station (Larissis) and Piraeus port, the main point of departure for the Greek islands; the metro to Piraeus is cheaper but it involves a change at Monastiraki station. There’s a cheap 24-hour bus service from the airport to Syntagma Square and Piraeus.

Taxis are plentiful: on an airport transfer, make sure the driver charges the flat fare from the airport (more expensive between midnight and 5am), rather than using the meter.

The city centre is compact enough to explore on foot. Otherwise, the Athens Metro is the quickest, easiest, and cheapest way to get around.

Taxis are plentiful and inexpensive and nowadays are obliged to give you a receipt. Use the Taxi Beat or Taxiplon app to hail or pre-book a cab.

With gridlock traffic, scarce parking, and minimal road signage, driving isn’t recommended. Cycling in Athens is only for the brave.

Most ferries to the islands leave from the gritty port of Piraeus.

The top five-star hotels are clustered around Syntagma Square – it’s bustling and noisy, but smack in the heart of the action, with good transport links. Kolonaki, a chic shopping district walking distance from central Syntagma Square, is a quieter option with more of a local vibe.

Pretty Plaka, a scenic stroll from all the major sites, offers surprisingly few quality hotel options. The seedy streets around Omonia Square are awash with budget hotels, best avoided as the area is unsafe after dark.

Families may prefer the seaside resorts in the southern suburbs of Vouliagmeni or Glyfada, but it’s a long trek to the city centre.

Small, hip bars are dotted around the warren of streets between Syntagma Square and Thisseion stations, as well as the nightlife hubs of Gazi and Psyrri. Pangrati and Koukaki are buzzy downtown neighbourhoods for day-to-night café culture and bar-hopping.

During the summer, nightlife migrates to rooftop bars and the ritzy clubs along the coast. To eat among locals, head to the lively, low-key mezze joints in the residential neighbourhoods of Ano Petralona or Halandri.

International brands and expensive Greek jewellers line pedestrian Voukourestiou Street. Further up the hill is Kolonaki, where designer boutiques are concentrated. Plaka and the Monastiraki flea market teem with souvenir shops, with some fine antiques and handicrafts among the tourist tat. For local colour and flavour, check out the central food market on Athinas Street.