Rio de Janeiro

Most tourists in Rio are Brazilian, and Carnival (February-March) and Christmas/New Year are the busiest times. They’re great periods for nightlife but crowded and expensive – hotel prices can more than double and it’s often rainy.

The wettest months are November to March, with frequent downpours and cold fronts. July is the coolest month, with temperatures in the low 20s. April to June and August to October are the best months for the beach.

Many visitors arriving by air will have an airport pick-up arranged via their hotel, but taxis are plentiful too. Always take a designated airport taxi (these are bookable in the terminal building) as they’re safer and many of the drivers speak some English.

Get around Rio by taxi or metro. Taxis should always be taken from designated taxi ranks or booked via your hotel; unlicensed street taxis can be unsafe. The metro is not extensive but does serve many of the areas you’re likely to visit – Ipanema, Copacabana, the Sambodromo (carnival arena) and the city centre.

Don’t even think of driving in Rio: it’s easy to get lost and potentially dangerous if you stray into the wrong area.

The contiguous neighbourhoods of Ipanema and upscale Leblon are the best choice for first-time visitors and beach lovers. They’re relatively safe and have decent restaurants. Copacabana is similar but a little more down-at-heel, with water that’s usually too dirty for swimming, but some first class hotels.

Ipanema and Leblon are the chicest suburbs and beaches, and therefore not surprisingly boast the majority of the best restaurants and cafés. Lagoa and Jardim Botânico, with a handful of upmarket restaurants and bars, lie behind them at the feet of Christ the Redeemer on Corcovado. Copacabana has seen better days, and hotels aside, has few top dining options.

Cariocas who like to samba head to Lapa on Fridays and Saturdays where there are streets lined with small samba and chorinho (Brazilian ragtime) clubs and boteco bars.

Rio is not a great shopping destination. Items are pricey and there’s little herethat you can’t find in Europe or the US. Ipanema, Leblon and the Fashion Mall in São Conrado are best for men’s and women’s labels, accessories, jewellery and music.

Santa Teresa has a few quirky shops selling art and crafts. The city centre is best for low-end fashion. Rio has few markets, but the Feira Hippie is worth a browse.

Robbery is fairly common in Rio, so never carry more than you’re prepared to lose. Sensible precautions can significantly reduce the risk: dress down, leave expensive jewellery at home, keep cameras in bags when you’re not using them and never resist a thief as they’re usually armed. Be very careful where you use your credit card (even ATMs), and put spend limits on it before you come.

Stick to the main thoroughfares, avoid beaches at night, and whatever you do, don’t walk into the local favelas (slums) without a guide.

Take a phrase book or translation app as few locals speak anything other than Portuguese, including taxis drivers and waiters. A lot of restaurants have menus with no translation.