12 Best places to stay in Bangkok

There are riverside hotels and there are hotels right on the river. Artsy Loy La Long, taking over a century-old wooden house near Chinatown, firmly belongs to the latter category.

Most of its rooms—all recycled wood, floral curtains and mis-matched furnishing—open to verandahs and balconies with the murky Chao Phraya sloshing just beneath your feet, while the pillow-strewn lobby lounge delivers front-row river views with a cold beer and a jazzy soundtrack.

Luxury lovers might find it a little too back-to-basics (the river doesn’t smell of roses after all), but anyone after a slice of laid-back Bangkok life – for a very reasonable price – will soon find themselves plotting their return.

When downtown Bangkok feels too rushed and the historical quarter a little too touristy, this small boutique hotel tucked behind a ramshackle village just across the river from the city’s main sights will hit the spot.

It’s a lovely hideaway, offering the chance to immerse yourself in local life along the river, whether exploring the adjoining village on foot or watching rainbow-coloured long-tail boats zoom past the hotel’s wooden deck.

While its slightly off-beat location makes grabbing a quick bite a little challenging, the on-site IMM restaurant is an excellent spot for home-style Thai classics.

The Grand Palace and Wat Pho are a short 15-minute boat ride away, but you’ll need at least 45 minutes to reach the bustle of downtown.

The fact that its lobby cafe and rooftop restaurant are perennially packed with clued-in locals is a testament to Kimpton Maa-Lai’s success in building a lifestyle hotel that is more than just a pretty place to rest.

This is one of Bangkok’s smartest five-stars, with just the right amount of marble and a great line-up of bars and restaurants where comfort food – not fine dining – dominates the menu.

Despite its location in the city’s ritzy Phloen Chit district, a Valhalla of pricy restaurants and high-end shopping malls, this swanky high-rise hotel feels much less pretentious than its five-star peers. And with Lumphini Park just down the street, a slice of low-key local life is never far away.

Thanks to its proximity to the BTS Skytrain station and thoroughfares connecting this part of town to the temple-studded historical quarter, it’s a great base from which to explore all corners of the city.

Many Thais have Chinese ancestry, and this 1930s nod to Old Shanghai in a historic building along Chinatown’s main street aims to reflect this heritage.

The dramatic courtyard is enlivened by enchanting bird-cage lanterns, while the exotic rooms are decorated with Chinese screens and colourful cushions made from cheongsam fabrics.

Chinese books and draughts boards fill the library, and a delicious Chinese-inspired afternoon tea, and jazz bands at the Shanghai Terrace bar complete the look.

The location in the heart of historic Chinatown is superb. Sights are a stroll away and the river is close for ferries. There’s no swimming pool, but you can cool down by the water garden.

Pitched on the highest end of the city’s high-end hospitality scene, Capella Bangkok is the ultimate splurge. All rooms come with sweeping river views and spa-like bathrooms clad in travertine marble, while many open to spacious balconies with private plunge pools and cosy lounge pads.

As Bangkok’s postcard sights are at least a 20-minute taxi ride away, this isn’t the place for travellers with a jam-packed itinerary. But with its excellent spa, a Thai-tinged Mediterranean restaurant by celebrity chef Mauro Colagreco and one of the loveliest riverside terraces in town, you’ll be hard-pressed to leave the premises for long, anyway.

Taking over a row of 1960s shophouses in the atmospheric Old Town, Bangkok Publishing Residence is the brainchild of Panida Tosnaitada, a young-gun hotelier whose family used to run a publishing business from the same building.

She swapped the printing presses for supremely comfortable guest rooms with mod-cons such as micro-gel mattress toppers and Bluetooth speakers, but whispers of the building’s former past can still be found in the lobby, which doubles as a museum showcasing printing paraphernalia and vintage editions of popular Thai magazines.

What makes this hotel truly shine, though, is the immaculate attention to detail. Guests have access to a rooftop Jacuzzi tub in lieu of a pool, and while the hotel’s kitchen closes for lunch and dinner, the amiable staff happily helps you order from nearby restaurants.

The exquisite Sukhothai, with its Thai-inspired architecture and design, elegant accommodation and peaceful public spaces – featuring ponds, stupas, pagodas and statues – offers a wonderfully serene atmosphere.

The Sukhothai is home to one of Bangkok’s finest hotel pools, a 25m expanse of turquoise surrounded by lush gardens. It’s a luxurious and welcome retreat after a day on Bangkok’s chaotic streets. The Spa Botanica is also one of Bangkok’s best.

Sandwiched between a big international hospital and a hum-ho stretch of Sukhumvit Road, Ad Lib’s location might not have a lot going for it. Yet, this savvy boutique hotel masterfully turned its plot at the dead end of a residential cul-de-sac into an oasis of lush greenery and contemporary design.

Shaded by banyan trees, its 58 rooms are snug but comfortable and come with a handy smartphone to take around town.

Guests can also use the complimentary shuttle service to reach the Phloen Chit BTS Skytrain station, while a dip in the gorgeous saltwater rooftop pool is a welcome treat after a day in the Thai sun.

The Mandarin Oriental is a luxury landmark sandwiched between the bustling Chao Phraya River and Bangrak, Bangkok’s oldest district. The river affords views and ferries to the city’s best sights, while Bangrak’s historic streets are awash with atmosphere.

For those content to stay in and revel in its unsurpassed luxury, the hotel is home to one of the city’s finest spas, a 25m pool and several excellent on-site restaurants.

Thais love the tradition of afternoon tea and the sumptuous spread served in the Authors’ Lounge is legendary. At sunset, order a cocktail at the hotel’s waterfront Verandah bar – there are few finer places in the city to savour the sun going down.

The Mandarin Oriental is also home to the city’s finest cooking school – indulge yourself with a morning market walk and Thai cookery class, followed by lunch.

This elegant boutique hotel in a 1940s house is one of Bangkok’s loveliest places to stay. Located in luxuriant tropical gardens at the end of a lane, combining old-world style with modern amenities, there’s nothing else like it.

The property was built as a home during World War II by Khun Phra Chareon, Thailand’s father of modern engineering. His granddaughter and her English husband, the current owners, have remodelled the house into a stylish hotel with individually designed rooms.

The location for sightseeing is excellent – the BTS is nearby. It’s also very close to the heart of Sukhumvit’s shopping.

After exhausting hours on the streets, return to enjoy a steam Thai massage, soak in the jacuzzi at the hotel’s Som Sen Spa, or participate in a silent meditation retreat with a Thai monk (arrange in advance).

Where most Thai boutique stays draw on the country’s ancient palaces and temples for design inspiration, Volve takes a refreshingly different approach.

Owner Pavee Tansirikongkol took cues from the midcentury villas hidden in Thonglor’s alleys and has created a 28-room lifestyle hub with a touch of retro.

This is one of those places that manages to make you feel like a local, with bright rooms resembling small apartments and a handy booklet featuring the many little-known shops, restaurants and bars dotted around this bustling district. There’s a smart cafe in the lobby and a contemporary Thai-Chinese restaurant in the basement.

When it’s time for sightseeing, Thonglor’s BTS Skytrain station connects you to all corners of town within 30 minutes.

Staying in Bangkok’s Chinatown has its perks: you can stumble into bed after late-night eats at its neon-lit night market or be the first to sample fresh patongko (Chinese crullers) and congee right after sunrise.

The downside, however, is the cacophony of tuk-tuks, street vendors and temple bells this district is infamous for.

ASAI Bangkok Chinatown, a hyper-smart design hotel that walks the line between ‘business’ and ‘boutique’, offers a fine compromise. Its location, a five-minute stroll from the district’s noisy main drag, puts you close to Chinatown’s highlights, but far enough to have them out of earshot at bedtime.

With a restaurant frequently hosting Bangkok’s hot-shot chefs for kitchen takeovers, clued-in staff and a shop selling local design products, this is a great place to discover Chinatown beyond its tropes.