13 Best places to stay in Provence

Surrounded by some of Provence’s most beautiful gardens, under the otherworldly crags of the Alpilles, this exquisite Relais & Chateaux hotel and restaurant in a former farmhouse helped put Provence on the map for discerning travellers, immediately after WWII.

It still casts a spell, no matter how often you’ve been.

An easy walk from the village of Les Baux, the 54 rooms and suites are spread out among several buildings. There are three gorgeous pools in the gardens and a luxury spa.

Then there’s heavenly food at the 3 Michelin-starred Oustau de Baumaniere and the more informal Cabro d’Oro restaurants, plus one of France’s most prestigious wine cellars with over 50,000 bottles (cooking and wine tastings and classes are offered).

Filled with a pervasive sense of calm and happiness, it’s an unbeatable base for visiting Provence – if you can bear to leave.

Arles’s most luxurious boutique hotel occupies an elegant, central townhouse dating back to 1824.

The rooms are pure romance, with incredible attention to detail – each one feels like a work of art – and the hotel’s walled garden and serene lap pool are irresistible on a hot summer’s day.

The walled, gated garden with its hundred-year-old trees is a delicious oasis, blocking out the labyrinthine and slightly shabby side streets of old Arles – an idyllic retreat to return to after a day out.

Breakfast here (for an extra fee) is a lovely way to start the day: fresh baked brioche and breads, served on antique silver, eaten while listening to the birds.

There’s a spa and great room service menu, making it the perfect address for romantics and lovers of refinement, but also for first-time visitors.

It’s close to the sights, too: the Espace Van Gogh is three streets away, housed in the Mediatheque (the former hospital, with its beautiful garden), and it’s a few more minutes to Rue de la Republique, Saint-Trophime Cathedral and other main attractions.

Located in the heart of Arles, the Nord Pinus is part of the city’s history; it even has columns from a Roman temple embedded in its facade.

The favourite of visiting bullfighters, its clients in the 1950s included Picasso, Cocteau, Hemingway and John Houston. Its public areas and rooms, furnished with antiques, are steeped with history and charm.

If there are no toreros (bullfighters) in town, ask for room No 10, the enormous bullfighter’s room, with its sublimely over-the-top mirror, chandelier, private balcony and antique bathroom.

Throw in helpful, switched-on staff, and you have a delightful choice for a luxurious, central stay.

The setting is magical, in an old stone farm immersed in some of the Luberon’s most beautiful landscapes between Cadenet and Lourmarin.  

Converted into a boutique hotel by Michelin-starred chef Reine Sammut and her husband, today the auberge is run by their daughter Nadia, who knows what’s what in the kitchen and offers courses in her groundbreaking, allergy-free ‘Cuisine Libre’. 

The superb food, made with ingredients freshly plucked from the property’s farm, is reason alone to stay, but it also makes a wonderful retreat to return to after sightseeing. There are lovely Mediterranean gardens filled with roses, a shimmering pool and stylish rooms. 

The Auberge hires out electric bikes for slow peddling around the Luberon.

This exquisite little boutique hotel in the centre of Aix-en-Provence occupies a typical 18th-century townhouse, where the owner – architect Laura Juhen – has spared no expense in creating four of the loveliest rooms in Provence.

Originally built in 1785, the house was once the home of Henriette Reboul, friend of Cezanne and Chanel, and today has a charming, hospitable atmosphere, thanks to the wonderful breakfast in the winter garden.

Perfect for a first-time visit or honeymoon, this place is as intimate and welcoming as staying in the home of a very chic friend, who just happens to have a mini-spa and pool in the basement.

Located in the Mazarin Renaissance quarter of Aix, a residential neighbourhood of similar townhouses on narrow streets that feels wonderfully peaceful, while still putting you close to the sights.

This sumptuous townhouse (built 1580) in the heart of medieval Avignon became a hotel in 1799 – when it was baptised Hotel d’Europe by none other than Napoleon Bonaparte, a friend of the owner and the first in a long line of famous guests.

The magnificent courtyard, with its 300-year-old plane tree, is a peaceful spot; and it’s in a convenient location in the heart of the old town. The Junior Suites have views over the city of Avignon; the Suites overlook the Palais des Papes.

The hotel’s much-travelled chef, Bruno d’Angélis, has earned a Michelin star for his Mediterranean cuisine with a fresh exotic touch at La Vieille Fontaine; his winter truffle menu is especially fabulous.

Infused with period elegance and run by a staff with old-world courtesy and class, it’s a dream for history lovers and first-time visitors to Avignon.

Located five minutes from Saint-Remy and 15 minutes from Les Baux-en-Provence, this beautiful 19th-century chateau is surrounded by a glorious 300-year-old park, with native and exotic trees.

Once famous for hosting France’s best-known politicians, artists and writers, today the romantic rooms – furnished with an astute mix of period and contemporary design – offer an atmospheric refuge from a more genteel era.

It’s an idyllic place to linger in and there’s plenty to do, with a beautiful heated pool, tennis and petanque courts, fitness and massage rooms, and electric bikes to hire; the exceptional restaurant is an added bonus. And Avignon, Arles and Aix are all within an hour’s drive.

This stunning 18th-century farm, immersed in nature 4km east of the wine town of Beaumes-de-Venise, is one of Provence’s most unusual and attractive guesthouses.

Here wooden beams and living rock walls meet antiques and high-tech contemporary styling in a unique but successful marriage.

Serene and tranquil, with a lovely outdoor pool on the terrace, it’s a perfect choice for wine lovers, or couples or families wanting to relax in a beautiful rural setting.

Located right next to the Palais des Papes, this magnificent hotel manages to balance aristocratic 18th-century elegance, charm and authenticity with 5-star, 21st-century facilities. Each detail has been carefully and expensively designed, down to the wood-block wallpaper, paintings and sculptures, Carrara marble bathrooms and silk-lined curtains.

The central location, a stone’s throw from the Palace of the Popes, and a lovely garden filled with flowers all add to the charm. The Michelin-starred restaurant and famous cooking school make it a top choice for gastrophiles.

It’s a gorgeous central refuge – perfectly located for sightseeing and the festival – for those who can afford it.

This is as rare as a penguin in Provence: a thoroughly charming hotel in easy walking distance of Aix’s centre, for the same price as a faceless chain hotel in the suburbs.

Set on a quiet side street, the Cardinal is not only housed in a historic 18th-century building, but its decor wonderfully evokes the era of Cezanne, in his own hometown – but with lots of essential mod-cons, including a lift and wi-fi.

The friendly owners are keen to preserve its old-fashioned authenticity, and high-ceilinged rooms come furnished with marble fireplaces, antiques and chandeliers.

The location, only a few minutes from the beautiful Cours Mirabeau, is ideal for exploring the city. The Granet Museum and the Place des Quatre Dauphins, with Aix’s pretty fountain, are a stone’s throw away; the restaurants, bars and shops of the historic centre are a 5-10 minute walk.

This little charmer, set in a historic building, is a rare affordable option near the centre of Avignon.

It’s quirky, bohemian and painted in cheerful colours. Simple, clean rooms are done up in reds, yellows and oranges and decorated with antiques and bric-a-brac – they’re more comfortable than the official rating suggests.

The rooms overlooking the colour-drenched courtyard with its greenery have the prettiest views. What it doesn’t have is complimentary toiletries – bring your own – or a lift (though there are ground-floor rooms available).

It’s not included in the price, but do try Annie’s ever-changing hotel breakfast one morning – it’s a nice change from the usual croissant, bread and jam. Le Colbert has a sweet little patio for breakfast or just relaxing in the sun, and you’re close to the train station, with easy parking three minutes away.

In a handsome 19th-century stone building, this homely boutique hotel is a comfortable and great-value base for couples or families sightseeing in Provence.

Modern interiors done up in white, charcoal and purple are inviting, and the suntrap central garden courtyard – with its swimming pool and bar – is a lovely place to relax after sightseeing.

It’s a 15-minute walk from the historic centre of Aix-en-Provence – close enough for attractions and restaurants, but far enough that you feel the benefit of staying in a peaceful residential quarter away from the noisy tourist hordes. For those self-driving around Provence, it also offers a secure (and rare) place to leave the car (although booking a space in advance is essential).

Designed by Christophe Pillet, this ultra-contemporary, minimalist hotel is secluded in the olive groves under the Alpilles, in one of the most beautiful corners of Provence.

This exclusive haven has just 14 suites and a spa where you can enjoy Carita and Decleor treatments, as well as indoor and outdoor pools.

Nancy Bourguignon’s creative, seasonal cuisine and superb breakfasts, and romantic packages with dinner or spa pampering thrown in, make it a real destination hotel.

It’s also close enough to the region’s main attractions to combine hedonist indulgence with sightseeing – it’s a short hop from the Camargue, Avignon, Arles and Saint-Rémy among others.

It’s a friendly, family-run operation with a close-knit team of professionals. A wonderful retreat in a gorgeous Mediterranean setting – with the price tag you’d expect.