The Amazon

Generally, the Amazon is good all year round, but it’s a vast place so there are variations. In the lowland Amazon, temperatures only vary by about three degrees all year; the higher you get, the more the climate changes; in forested locations such as the Manu National Park, the temperature can drop to single figures at night.

Wildlife-lovers should visit during the dry season (this varies according to which part of the Amazon you’re visiting) when there is a greater chance of seeing mammals as the water has dropped and they can bask in the sun. But the rainy season brings benefits too; the forest around Manaus floods from February, offering the opportunity for extraordinary dugout canoeing through the trees. Waters recede from July, when beaches are exposed.

The best time to visit Peru’s Manu National Park is in the dry season – late April to September, and Alter do Chao is best between August and December. During these times the beaches are exposed, rather than below the water line, and jaguars and tapirs can often be seen along the river beaches.

Insects are unaffected by seasons; they vary according to water colour and type of forest. Brown water rivers and lakes have lots of mosquitos all year round. Black and blue water rivers have very few.

Brazil: For Manaus and Alter do Chão (airport Santarem) it is best to fly via Fortaleza, which is closer to Europe and North America than São Paulo and Rio – both of which are four hours flight south of Manaus. For Alta Floresta fly via São Paulo.

Peru: for Iquitos, Cusco and Puerto Maldonado fly via Lima. Ecuador: all tours leave from Quito which has an international airport.

The Amazon is huge and Amazon cities in different countries are not connected by flights. To visit, choose a hub location and then visit the forest from there. You will need a guide. Where there are roads they are often impassable in rain, and it’s dangerous to hire a car in the Amazon. Tour operators and jungle lodges will generally pick-up from the airport on arrival and if not, then from your hotel in your hub city.

Manaus (Brazil) is a large city. Taxis are plentiful and easy to find. It is not safe to walk around after dark outside the tourist areas next to the Opera House or Ponta Negra beach. Alter do Chão is safe and small enough to walk around.

Quito (Ecuador) is a large city; taxis are plentiful and affordable and by far the easiest way to get around. It is not safe to walk around Quito after dark, especially in the quieter streets of the old colonial centre.

Iquitos, Cusco and Puerto Maldonado in Peru are easily manageable on foot. Iquitos and Cusco are safe in the city centre.

Staying in the Amazon can be as comfortable as in a beach boutique or as rough as an expedition camp.

In the plusher lodges – which you will find in all hub countries, expect beautifully crafted air-conditioned rooms – often inspired by indigenous Amazon designs, quality linens and sometimes a swimming pool. Simpler lodges will have little more than a wooden bed, mosquito net and a table and chair. They will be fan-cooled.

Some of the remoter areas like Manu National Park in Peru might involve camping in the forest itself, which can be an astonishing and frightening experience – with the noises of the jungle all around and lots of insects.

Amazon Cruises tend to be comfortable. You will have your own cabin, often in lush tropical wood, there will be plenty of hammock and viewing space and there are few insects on the river itself. The best cruises are the smaller ones; with more intimacy and greater access to the lesser tributaries and creeks.

Manaus, Cusco and Quito – like other large Latin American cities have moderate levels of crime. Do not wear cameras and expensive jewellery in open view and be careful walking alone at night – take a taxi. Pickpocketing occurs in Iquitos.

There is little to no crime in the smaller towns. Avoid gold-mining areas throughout the Amazon and never travel alone on the rivers – backwaters are labyrinthine and it is easy to get lost.

Take advice on malaria prophylaxis – which is necessary throughout the region. Statistically, the most dangerous animals are bees and wasps.