Hotel Grotta

Obsessively clean, with an unending breakfast buffet featuring home-baked pies that will carry you easily past lunch, this two-star family hotel at the northern edge of town has spectacular sunset views over Portara.

The owners, Dimitris and Nikoletta, who run the place, are the perfect ambassadors for Greek filoxenia (hospitality) and will easily cross the boundaries of a concierge and become your friends for life.

To top it all, there’s parking – rare for a town hotel – and easy access to the rocky beach at Grotta, where you may discern a Mycenaean submerged village when the sand bed moves the right way.