San Sebastian 3-day Itinerary

San Sebastian’s central market, just in from La Concha bay, opened its doors in 1884, and underwent a complete transformation in 2006; along with traditional food stalls, San Martin now hosts concerts and cultural events.

San Sebastian’s world-famous three-Michelin-star restaurant (since 1989!), run by Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena Arzak, who won the prize for the world’s best female chef in 2012. There cellar holds some 100,000 bottles of wine.

If you want to understand the unique and proud Basque culture (believed to be the oldest civilisation, with the oldest language, in Europe), this San Sebastian museum of history and fine arts is the place to go. It recently had a complete makeover – now the beautifully displayed collection covers everything from model ships and prehistoric carvings to regional armour, traditional costume and games, as well as exceptional special exhibitions, often on photography.

The museum also encompasses the must-see former church of San Telmo, decorated with 11 enormous, golden-hued canvases depicting key moments in Basque history – painted in 1932 by Jose Maria Sert.

Right in the medieval centre, this contemporary bar uses the finest ingredients in its traditional and avant garde pintxos – their prawn skewers are famous. Good wine list too. Best to book a table as it fills up fast.

Located just over the river in Gros, this bar has won prizes for its exquisite nibbles. You can make a meal of them (there’s a set menu) at one of the tables.

Dine on cod dishes and steaks in this traditional cider house (sagardotegi), just outside San Sebastian. They’ve been making cider here for over 500 years. They offer guided tours of the apple orchards and cider works; their typical set menus are online.

If San Sebastian gets too intense, escape to this lovely village, just 18km west along the coast. Getaria is a real fishing port with a proud heritage. As well as an attractive medieval town centre, it has charming seafood restaurants and broad, clean beaches – and it’s still largely undiscovered by foreigners.

Getaria also has a burgeoning wine scene, as the light, sparkling txakoli wine is produced around here. Txakoli, a very dry, slightly sparkling white that goes perfectly with pintxos, is one of the new stars of Spain’s wine scene. Once just a drink that farmers made for themselves, it’s now ubiquitous in Basque bars and restaurants.

The original txakoli comes from the delightful hill country outside the picturesque village of Getaria, and it’s a great excuse to lose yourself in the area’s countryside and sample a glass or two.

This small museum tucked away in the small village of Balenciaga’s birth (1895), displays of 20th-century haute couture outfits by the famous designer. There are guided tours and even an onsite fashion school for teaching the tips of the trade.