8 Best things to see & do in Siena

The most famous bareback horserace in the world, Il Palio sees horses and riders galloping three times round Siena’s glorious, medieval Piazza del Campo.

Palio is a centuries-old settling of neighbourhood scores for the Sienese, and it defines the social, cultural and political fabric of the city each year. Each of the 17 contrade (neighbourhoods) enters a horse and jockey (although only 10 compete in each race) with the single objective to win by fair means or – occasionally – foul.

The race itself is over in a flash (an average of 75 seconds), but it’s preceded by several hours of processions and three days of pre-race trials and festivities. Each contrada holds its own festivities (al fresco dinners, the blessing of the horses in the contrada churches) in the three days leading up to the races.

Siena’s principal market, held each Wednesday morning, is one of the best in Tuscany. Stalls are set up at La Lizza, filling the streets around the Fortezza. Apart from excellent produce (cheeses, charcuterie, olive oil and wines, fruit and vegetables), you’ll find clothing, shoes, bags and household items.

A 15th-century palazzo housing more than 1,500 artworks, one of Italy’s foremost collections includes an array of dazzling Sienese fondi d’oro paintings (with gilded backgrounds). Expect works by Guido da Siena, Lorenzetti, Sodoma and Beccafumi.

The magnificent Gothic, zebra-striped Duomo houses a celebrated polychrome floor, often covered for protection but normally visible in August and September. Look out for Nicola Pisano’s superb marble pulpit and the young Michelangelo’s Piccolomini altar.

A historic cafe and pastry shop that’s been around for almost a century. It’s a great place to sample and buy panforte (the dense, flat cake made with nuts, dried fruit, spices and honey) and light, almond-y Ricciarelli biscuits.

A must-see for its collection of paintings by Lorenzetti, Simone Martini and other Sienese masters. One of the highlights is Simone Martini’s Maesta fresco (1315); another is Lorenzetti’s fresco cycle The Allegory of Good and The Effects of Bad Government (1338-40).

This ex-hospital building was founded in the 9th century (making it one of Europe’s oldest), and only closed relatively recently; the author Italo Calvino died here in 1985. It houses an excellent archaeological museum and the wonderful ‘Pilgrim’s Hall’ decorated with 15th-century frescoes depicting the history of the hospital.

Located a minute’s walk from Piazza del Campo and occupying a former grocer’s shop with a retro vibe, Le Logge is a classic osteria. They offer a creative take on regional dishes such as tagliatelle with Tuscan ragu, stuffed rabbit with blueberries, black garlic and fermented carrot and braised beef cheek.