Athens 5-day itinerary

You can’t visit Athens without visiting the Acropolis. It is the city’s iconic citadel and world-famous landmark that won’t fail to amaze even the most jaded traveller.  

‘Acropolis’ translates broadly from the Greek words ‘highest point’ or ‘extremity’. The site contains half-a-dozen buildings, mostly built from 500 BC to 450 BC on the orders of the powerful statesman Pericles, during the so-called ‘Golden age of Athens’. Pericles wanted to beautify, glorify and protect the city. 

The Pathenon 

A marble jigsaw made of 70,000 pieces, this 2,500-year-old temple dating back to 438 BC was dedicated to the goddess Athena. It dazzles with perfect symmetry and awe-inspires with its ancient grandeur, even when it’s crawling with tourists. It’s the most important surviving building of Classical Greece and a symbol of the nation. 

The Erechtheion 

On the north side of the complex, this Temple of was also dedicated to the goddess Athena, and was built to house the statue of Athena Polias. More famously today, it’s home to the ‘Porch of the Maidens’, featuring six sculpted female figures. 

Decades in the works, the Acropolis Museum opened in 2009. The clunky concrete and glass building has many detractors, but few dispute the magnificence of the collection.

For the first time, all the treasures unearthed on and around the Acropolis are displayed under one roof – except, of course, the ‘Elgin marbles’, a large section of the famous Parthenon frieze that’s in the British Museum. Should they be repatriated? Visit the top-floor gallery and decide for yourself.

The museum restaurant matches a great view with great food. Try inventive Greek dishes on a terrace jutting out towards the Parthenon. The glass-walled dining hall also offers stupendous views.

If you have only a day to spend in Athens, you can cover most of the city’s ‘greatest hits’ by wandering through the Grand Promenade that rings the Acropolis.

Designed to link all the main sights of ancient Athens in a single pedestrian zone, beautifully landscaped walkways are punctuated by exceptional monuments. There are contemporary attractions, too: al fresco cafés, street art, and friendly stray dogs.

Start at Hadrian’s Arch. Wander along Dionysiou Areopagitou, pausing to take in the ancient amphitheatres Herod Atticus and the Theatre of Dionysus, and the modern Acropolis Museum.

Continue on Apostolou Pavlou passing the rock of Pnyx on your left where the Athenian citizens used to gather listening to orators from Themistocles to St Paul.

A longer, signposted diversion at the junction of Dionysio Areopagitou and Apostolou Pavlou leads you to the alleged ‘Socrates’ Prison’, and to the top of Philopappou hill with bird’s eye views of the ancient sites below.

Back on Apostolou Pavlou and in about 500 yards you’ll spot the ‘Thission’ (a misnomer as it was a temple to the god Hephaestus), one of the best-preserved Doric temples anywhere in Greece.

Here you can divert into the Agora, the ancient Greeks’ shopping mall and civic hall as well as its fine museum where you can see ceramic voting slips, reminders of the city’s democratic past.

Backtrack to Thission and finish at the overlooked cemetery of Kerameikos, which has an amazing collection of tombstones and statues.

The tallest of the capital’s seven hills, Mount Lycabettus towers over Athens, offering 360-degree views all the way to the encircling mountains and the Saronic Gulf, plus, of course, the Acropolis and the centre of Athens.

Rising to 909 feet, it’s possible to reach the summit by cable car, driving or walking (if you’re up for a challenge). The 19th-century Chapel of St George crowns the top of the hill, a neat whitewashed building that’s impossible to miss from below.

Next to the chapel, the upmarket Orizontes restaurant makes a great place for a long, view-filled lunch.

Though recently overshadowed by the newer, flashier Acropolis Museum, this treasure trove of antiquities is equally impressive. The display may be a bit dowdy, but the collection itself is world-class. From intricate, terracotta urns to delicate gold funeral masks, the craftsmanship of the ancient Greeks is astonishing.

The fascinating 5,000-year-old Cycladic Art figurines, which have influenced artists from Giacometti to Ai Weiwei, are guaranteed to surprise and delight even the most seasoned of culture vultures.

Hugging the eastern and northern slopes of the Acropolis is the neighbourhood of ‘Plaka’, the city’s old town heart. This maze of jasmine-scented alleys and colourful neoclassical houses – now protected by a preservation order – has been continuously populated since antiquity.

Strolling through Plaka feels like strolling through a 19th-century film set. Though the area’s tacky souvenir shops and terrible tavernas teem with tourists, the winding lanes and shaded squares, dotted with Byzantine churches and ancient ruins, have retained their charm.

The northern reaches of Plaka are the prettiest. This maze of whitewashed alleys is called Anafiotika, after the islanders from Anafi who built the capital of newly-independent Greece in 1841.

On Kydathinaion Square, Cine Paris is one of the loveliest outdoor cinemas in Athens. If the film disappoints, you can just gaze at the Parthenon under the moonlight. Open May to October.

The closest Athens has to an oriental bazaar; from 10am each day the streets heave with every kind of stall – from antiques to clothes and bric-a-brac – then from 10pm the bars take over, making this the epicentre of Monastiraki’s nightlife.

As you walk around Monastiraki, pass by Plateia Eirinis and join the queue outside Kostas, the most famous hole-in-the-wall souvlaki-seller in Athens, with its secret-recipe tomato sauce.

Sounion or Sounio (the Sacred Cape of the Athenians according to Homer) lies at the southernmost tip of the Attic peninsula. Marked by the partly-renovated temple of Poseidon set on a steep, 200-ft high precipice, Sounion is evidence that the Ancient Greeks chose the locations of their temples with immaculate taste.

The temple crowns the summit of an ancient fortified settlement, with six-foot walls, erected by the city-state of Athens for strategic purposes. It occupies around ten acres in total; a port was located at the sandy cove to the north of the fortress.

This is the spot where – according to myth – King Aegeas awaited the return of his son Thissias, who had been dispatched to kill the Minotaur. When he saw his ship bearing black sails – his son had forgotten to swap them – he committed suicide by falling into the sea, thus naming the Aegean.

The legend, the temple, plus the unfettered pelagic views all come together in one of Greece’s most renowned sunsets – an experience not to be missed.

An amphitheatric harbour – and the best-looking spot in Piraeus – with shoulder-to-shoulder fish tavernas where you can taste the day’s catch.

One of the most evocative and intriguing archaeological sites in Greece, Delphi was the site of the Oracle – a pythia (priestess), who would channel the god Apollo whilst in a trance. Some of her vague prophesies appear in Greek historical texts, others are still proverbs today.

The extensive site, considered by the ancients to be the Earth’s nave, is full of ‘treasuries’ built to thank the Oracle. The excavated, superbly fashioned artefacts can be visited in its must-see museum.

Alongside the Temple of Apollo and treasuries, the site’s other main draw is the spectacular theatre, dating back to the 4th century BC, with a capacity of over 5,000. Delphi was the location of the Pythian Games, rivals to the Olympics in antiquity, which took place in the amphitheatre.

One of the best places in the city to experience a proper Turkish hammam, with the baths housed in an elegant neoclassical mansion opposite the Islamic Museum.

An unassuming small town in Attica, Marathon is famous as the site of a victorious battle for the Greek army, when they defeated the Persians in 490 BC. Some credit this victory as signalling the beginning of Western civilisation, which then flourished in ancient Greece.

Three ancient tumuli (large raised common graves), rising to 40ft, mark the site where the most ancient battle ever recorded was fought. It was the runner Pheidippides who ran the 42.195km to Athens, in full armour, to deliver the triumphant news, a feat that gave the name to the modern Olympic race. Having delivered the message, he promptly died.

This is a must for anyone interested in Ancient Greek History. Some credit this victory as signalling the beginning of Western civilisation, which then flourished in ancient Greece. and is especially poignant for those who have run a marathon; somehow it brings perspective to all the pain suffered in the race.

The best collection of Islamic Art outside the Muslim world, exhibiting a vast range of artifacts from intricately decorated prayer books to the reconstruction of a Cairo mansion reception room.

A glorious introduction to the sacred arts of Byzantium. Icons, mosaics, textiles, murals and sculpture offer illuminating insights into this distinctive aspect of Greek culture. A newer wing houses temporary exhibitions that explore the influence of Byzantium on contemporary art.

A timewarp step into Athens’s past culinary traditions, this tiny yet popular ouzeri at the corner of Sokratous and Evripidou has slightly expanded its menu, but not its cramped space.

An institution since 1953, the Dora Stratou Dance Company performs daily folk dancing shows in summer, in the eponymous open-air theatre on Philopappou Hill. Eye-opening as well as hugely entertaining, this is the best folk experience in Athens.