A la Mere de Famille
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
There are old-fashioned bonbons, jellied fruits and chocolates galore in this historical sweet shop, founded in 1761.
Good for age: 4+
Travel bucket list idea:
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Try snails with garlic, herbs and butter – a local specialty
Paris is one dynamic food metropolis – a culinary hub that ticks every edible box, whether you’re looking for classic steak-frites and onion soup or breakfast staples like baguette and croissants.
Old-school pleasures – chateaubriand beef and garlicky snails – abound on menus in many traditional eating houses (like bistros and brasseries), but nowadays the new generation of chefs is deconstructing traditional dishes to create their own, more elevated styles of food, often using ingredients sourced from neighbouring departements like Picardie (for potatoes and root vegetables) and Seine-et-Marne (for cheeses).
You’ll find plates from all over France, but Parisian specialities include: Paris-Brest (choux pastry with praline cream), croque-monsieur (cheese and ham toastie), steak tartare (raw beef chopped with spices and herbs), hachis parmentier (ground beef and mashed potato pie) and cheeses like Brie de Meaux and creamy Coulommiers. Also see our round-up of traditional French foods to try in France.
Wine predominates, but look out for Parisian beer (often brewed within the city limits), like Gallia, La Parisienne and La Baleine.
Paris and fine food have always gone hand-in-hand. But over the last twenty years, classic French cuisine has transformed into something wholly exciting and contemporary, largely in its bistros (local eating houses), thanks to a culinary movement known as bistronomie (a mix of bistro and gastronomie). In short, it involves making ‘simple’ bistro dishes with high-end gastronomic techniques, resulting in creative, elevated food, at affordable prices.
The one staple that never seems to change, however, is the Parisian café – the people-watcher’s dream with tiled floor, zinc bars, and tables sprawling onto the pavement. Cafés tend to open early for breakfast then serve food all day until late.
You’ll also find traditional menus in the city’s brasseries – grand, noisy institutions, where black-and-white suited waiters serve seafood platters, sauerkraut and steak in historical dining rooms with décor unchanged since the 19th and early 20th centuries.
The street food scene in Paris has exploded in recent years too, with everything from Afro-French soul food to Brazilian stews on offer from pop-ups and vans around the city.
Paris is also now home to more than eighty food markets, all overflowing with locally-grown produce, cured meats, pates, cheeses and of course, French wines. The quaintest is Enfants Rouge, but Marche Bastille, where colourful stalls are often interspersed with street performers, is also worth a try.
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
There are old-fashioned bonbons, jellied fruits and chocolates galore in this historical sweet shop, founded in 1761.
Good for age: 4+
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
This vast, snaking open-air food market of 100+ stalls is held weekly on Thursdays and Sundays. It’s great for fine, locally-sourced produce, especially cheese, and atmospheric; street performers often entertain the shoppers.
Good for age: 18+
Duration: All day
When: Thursday & Saturday
Freq: weekly
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
Cafe de la PaixParis’ celebrated cafes are an integral part of the local culture, serving as social hubs and cultural landmarks. Patrons indulge in the art of people-watching while sipping espresso or enjoying a croissant. Iconic establishments like Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots have hosted intellectual giants like Hemingway and Sartre, further enhancing their allure.
Cafe de la Paix is an institution with the best vanilla mille-feuille in Paris, served in gilded surrounds with views of the magnificent Palais Garnier Opera House.
Good for age: 18+
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
This bar on the top of the Tour Montparnasse skyscraper is coveted for both its breathtaking Eiffel Tower views and its potent Bellinis.
Good for age: 18+
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
A stalwart literati haunt famed for Hemingway beef (steak with whiskey sauce) and crepe suzettes, flambeed at your table.
Good for age: 18+
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
The best of the city’s food markets, with dozens of yummy traiteurs (delicatessens) selling everything from Creole curry to Breton crepes. It’s also the oldest food market in Paris – it started here in 1615. Closed Mondays.
Good for age: 18+
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
A venerable market wine bar, dedicated to all things wine, with barrels direct from producers and crowds spilling out onto the pavement for post-shopping tipples. A Paris institution.
Min age 18
Good for age: 18+
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
The go-to spot for bistronomie-style cooking and all-natural wines in a photogenic, retro setting.
Good for age: 18+
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
Iconic French restaurant famed for its Challans duckling and 320,000-bottle wine list, as well as unrivalled Seine views.
Min age 18
Good for age: 18+
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
Head to this grand train station brasserie, originally opened to serve passengers travelling to the 1900 World Fair, is to ogle the incredible decor – the room is laden with gilt, carved cherubs and blowsy frescoes of southern landscapes.
Good for age: 18+
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
A family-run Armagnac business famed for their vintage wines and own brandies, and well worth crossing the city for.
Min age 18
Good for age: 18+
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
The birthplace of the rum baba in the 18th century, the city’s oldest patisserie still wows with its gateaux (cake) today.
Good for age: 13+
Paris, Ile-de-France, France
Experience
Jules Verne RestaurantMichelin-starred chef Frederic Anton is continuing former (super)chef Alain Ducasse’s success in turning Paris’s most famous monument into a gastronomic destination, with a spectacular setting on the second level of the Eiffel Tower.
Dishes such as langoustine ravioli with beetroot jelly are light, modern and imaginative, and Aline Asmar Amman’s sophisticated space capsule design provides a perfect setting for admiring what’s on your plate while also ogling the view. Entry is via the private lift on the South Pillar (Pilier Sud).
It’s not cheap, but for a special treat on your trip, this is surely hard to beat. Where else can you dine in a world-famous monument, admiring views over the world’s most romantic city?
Adult price: £120
Good for age: 18+
Unsurprisingly, many of the fanciest haute cuisine restaurants are near the Champs-Elysees. The new generation of neo-bistros, where many locals actually eat, are scattered all across town, although you’ll find hotspots in the 7th and 11th arrondissements.
The best bar and party destinations depend on your style: young students let loose in rue Oberkampf and the Latin Quarter, trendy creatives mill around Faubourg St-Denis, and fashionistas and jetsetters pose in St-Germain.
Despite the explosion of street food, sit-down meals are still sacred in Paris, with three foodie moments punctuating the day: Lunch between 1 and 2:30pm, where locals lap up the menu du jour (daily specials). Then by 7pm, it’s aperitif time in a café or bar, followed by dinner in a bistro or brasserie after 8pm. Parisians typically dine late, with many places serving until 10pm – some are even open 24/7.
On weekends, the city turns into a brunch capital, when eateries all over town offer their take on the Anglosaxon meal. Don’t expect Sunday lunch as such. Though restaurants are open, there are rarely Sunday specials as people traditionally visit family and dine at home.
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