The Wall of Old Dubai in the Al Fahidi neighbourhood (Al Bastakiya)
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Credit Shutterstock.com/akimov konstantin
Textile Souk
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Credit Shutterstock.com/Dmitrii Iakimov
Credit Shutterstock.com/Dmitrii Iakimov
Gold Souk
Credit Shutterstock.com/Patryk Kosmider
Credit Shutterstock.com/Sweetland Studio
Spice Souk
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Credit Shutterstock.com/Francesco Bonino
Credit Shutterstock.com/Dan Rentea
Last updated: 19 April, 2024
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The buildings of ‘Old’ Dubai may only date back 100 years or so, but this neighbourhood, encompassing the Al Fahidi heritage district, Bur Dubai and the Creek itself, is the place to come to get a feel of the city’s history.
Until the 20th century, Dubai was a small pearl-diving and trading post, under the protection of the British as part of the Trucial States. Since the discovery of oil in the region, along with the formation of the UAE and independence in 1971, the city’s growth has been unprecedented, with mega-towers mushrooming out of the desert and tax-free zones drawing businesses and expatriates from across the globe.
From its roots as a centre of trade and pearling, Old Dubai is where you can catch a glimpse of how life would have felt before the skyscrapers arrived. Traditional wind towers rise up above the alleyways, old houses have been converted into atmospheric courtyard cafés and traditional wooden abra boats still cross Dubai Creek.
You can easily spend an entire day here, visiting some interesting museums, browsing the galleries, and shopping the souqs. Don’t miss the opportunity to get on the water – cross from one side to the other for just AED 1, or book your own abra for a private hour-long tour.
Recommendations
5
Al Shindagha Museum
Dubai, United Arab Emirates (UAE)
Experience
A brilliant insight into the story of Dubai Creek and the city’s waterfront origins. Don’t miss the equally excellent adjacent Perfume House, focusing on the importance of scent in Emirati culture.
Adult price: £12
Good for age: 18+
Arabian Teahouse
Dubai, United Arab Emirates (UAE)
Experience
A delightful former trader’s house in Al Fahidi where you could spend hours sitting in the atmospheric courtyard beneath the shady tree, sipping a mint lemonade or sweet karak tea.
Good for age: 18+
Gold Souk
Dubai, United Arab Emirates (UAE)
Experience
An atmospheric bazaar where dazzling chains, earrings, headdresses and more drip from the shop windows, and good deals can be had if you know what you’re looking for. It’s regulated by the Dubai government to ensure authenticity.
Good for age: 18+
Spice Souk
Dubai, United Arab Emirates (UAE)
Experience
While some stores feel a little touristy, locals really do stock up on spices here too. From Iranian saffron to piles of chilis, cloves and spice mixes, the shopkeepers will be happy to tell you about their stock and how you can use the spices back home.
Good for age: 18+
Textile Souk
Dubai, United Arab Emirates (UAE)
Experience
Running alongside Dubai Creek, the main lane of the souk is firmly for tourists and vendors can be quite persistent. Head one street back to find the real textile shops that cater to local tailors, with hues of every colour, shimmering satins, thousands of sequins, and the classic blacks and whites that are used to make Emirati traditional dress.
Good for age: 13+
Logistics
Price: Free
Minimum age: 0
Age suitable: 18+
When: All year around
Getting there & doing it
Old Dubai is centred on the western banks of the Creek. Al Ghubaiba Metro station is convenient for the museums of Al Shindaga, or ask a taxi to drop you at the Shindaga Historical District. From here, you can pop into the Al Shindaga Museum for a glimpse into the early years of Dubai Creek’s development, and the Saruq Al Hadid Museum to learn about the emirate’s ancient history.
Then follow the Creek in the direction of the souks, where you can browse the textile and souvenir shops. From there, it’s an easy stroll into the narrow alleys of the Al Fahidi heritage district, which adjoins the souks; easily recognisable by the traditional wind towers that adorn many of the buildings. Look out for the XVA Art Hotel and have a bite to eat in its courtyard café, or seek out the lovely Arabian Tea House for Emirati cuisine served in the shade of a tree.
Hop on an abra from either of the abra stations along this side of the Creek to the other side – they go when they’re full, which is usually just a matter of minutes. From here you can explore the spice and gold souks, before taking another abra back to the Bur Dubai side, preferably timed for the sunset. This is when the views are at their best and the call to prayer echoes from the many mosques that line the Creek.
If you still have some energy left, head to the Meena Bazaar area, where you’ll find plenty of casual restaurants serving good, cheap Indian food.
When to do it
Since this is one of the most walkable parts of the city, go when the weather is cooler. Avoid the peak summer months – late May to September, and unless you’re visiting in winter, it’s best not to go exploring in the middle of the day.
Sunset is a lovely time for an abra tour, and the heat of the day has passed, so best to start your tour around 4pm – this is when the souks are most lively too.
Who to go with: organised tours
12
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