Courses Camarguaises

Courses Camarguaises are bloodless bullfights, unique to Provence, where razeteurs (young men) dressed in white compete to seize a cockade, tied between the horns of a bull. Their only defense is to vault over the boards whenever the bull charges.

Unlike in bullfighting, the bulls are the stars of the show, not the ‘bullfighters’ i.e. razeteurs, even though some razeteurs achieve some local fame and notoriety. Each bull has his own name and identity – some become local ‘heroes’, with long ‘careers’ and even secure an honoury statue. The Camargue bull breed has long been recognised and valued for their speed, spirit, intelligence and fighting prowess (much more than their work ethic), and are specially bred for the occasion.

There are numerous such ‘Courses’ held through the spring and summer months, many accompanying various Provence festivals, but the ‘big one’, the main event, is the Cocarde d’Or that takes place on the first Monday in July. The tournament is staged in the evocative setting of Les Arènes, Arles’ ancient Roman amphitheatre, and includes a colourful parade of traditional costumes. Not only is the best razeteur crowned, but the bravest bull is chosen as well – a great honour for its manade (ranch).

Because this is a bloodless sport, it’s a great way of getting a taste of the tradition of bullfighting, without the gore. It’s also an opportunity to experience a cultural phenomenon in a magnificent Roman setting.