A day in Cusco

Dedicated to the sun and the moon, and with twin rooms once covered in solid gold and silver, the Qorikancha temple was the spiritual heart of the Inca Empire.

The building was literally laid out as a giant ‘Sun, star and moon dial’, used to physically track the movements of a diversity of astronomical bodies and to coordinate these with day-to-day planning and crop-planting across the Empire.

This was once the richest, most elaborate temple to Inti – the sun – in the entire Inca empire. ‘Qorikancha’ means ‘golden courtyard’. Unfortunately, the golden walls – and other gold-sculpted treasures – were looted and melted down by the Conquistadors on their arrival in the city.

Only the magnificent stonework remains; a curved, perfectly-fitted wall, inside which are the remains of the last Inca emperor: Tupac Amaru.

A mountain of striking, colourfully-striated rock bands, caused by layers of varying mineral deposits. It’s a 2-hour drive from Cusco, followed by 5km (3 mile) walk.

Built on the site of a royal Inca palace razed to the ground by Pizarro, this hulking 16th-century baroque church houses some impressive Cusqueno art, which mixes indigenous and Spanish styles, including a Last Supper showing Christ eating guinea pig. 

The Inca-made reredos behind the solid silver altar is covered in intricate carving and the north tower houses the 6 tonne Maria Angola Bell, named after a freed slave who threw a handful of gold into the crucible when the bell was cast in 1659.

This ruined Inca fortress and ceremonial centre to the sun perches over Cusco – with magnificent views of the city from its massive walls. The masonry boggles the mind: boulders weighing hundreds of tons cut into strange geometric shapes – transported without the use of the wheel – are jigsaw-pieced together without cement or metal tools.

The ruins represent just a fifth of its original mass. Even so, it’s an imposing sight: a series of tri-level ramparts hundreds of metres long and overlooking a vast field. The scale of some boulders is truly monumental, a testament to the ingenuity of Inca masonry.