Marrakech

The best time to visit is during autumn and spring. Temperatures in summer can become oppressively hot – over 40°C – and those locals who can, leave town for the mountains and coast. Christmas and New Year is another popular time for tourists, although temperatures can be cool at night and snow regularly falls in the mountains.

The city is more subdued during Ramadan, which occurs at a different time each year, according to the lunar calendar.

The quickest way to get from Marrakech’s Menara airport is by taxi – there is a rank just outside the terminal building, but agree your fare before you set off. The city centre is just 6km away. There is also an hourly bus service that departs from arrivals and drops passengers at the main tourist spots in both the Old and New towns.

Taxis are plentiful and relatively inexpensive. There are two types: petit taxis and grand taxis (usually ageing Mercedes). The former have meters but in practice these are rarely – if ever – used. In both cases it’s best to agree a price with the driver in advance and don’t be afraid to bargain. Cycling is not recommended.

The Medina is best tackled on foot, while trips to the New Town usually involve a short taxi ride.

Few things are certain in life, but getting lost in the Medina is one. So when young local boys approach you to help you find a way out, their help will be welcome. Be sure to pay them a small tip.

First-time visitors to Marrakech should stay in one of the Medina’s delightful riads. These charismatic converted townhouses, usually arranged around a central courtyard, are decorated in varying degrees of simplicity and opulence.  

Just outside the Medina is the Hivernage, a more modern area of town, home to more conventional and resort-style hotels. If you want something more relaxing, with more space and away from the hustle and bustle, The Palmerie offers a number of lavish, tranquil retreats with spas and swimming pools.  

You could also opt for a stay at one of several stunning kasbahs (former local citadels/castles) in the nearby Atlas Mountains, that have been converted into luxury hotels. Great to escape to for a few days after a few days sightseeing in the city.  

The medina is where you’ll find the upscale, palace restaurants. Many medina riads have atmospheric rooftop restaurants, open to non-residents with advanced booking, for something more intimate.

The ultimate Marrakech foodie experience is to eat in the Jemaa el Fna, at one of the twenty or so food stalls that pop up at dusk. Hygiene standards vary wildly, so check out a local blog or website to see which are recommended (each stall is numbered). There are lots of cafes overlooking the Jemaa el Fna, but these are places to go for a mint tea, rather than a meal.

The Ville Nouvelle is home to the more contemporary, European-style restaurants, ranging from classic French brasseries to upscale Morocco and Italian restaurants, cafes and nightclubs.

Among Marrakech’s most celebrated attractions are its Medina souks, a bewildering tangle of lanes lined with stalls selling everything from traditional slippers and spices to perfumes and metalwork. The Medina also has several noteworthy boutiques, offering locally-made fashion, homewares and textiles.  

Gueliz is home to more Western-style shops and chain stores, and some chic Moroccan and French boutiques.